something is going on from the inside the car to the outside. its getting power to the solenold on the starter. im not sure which one it has, but i might ask the chevy dealership on a later date. when the key is in the ignition, and turned on, the light goes out after 3 seconds. i know that the car has some type of factory security system, and the key has a chip in it.
once it cranks, it will run just fine like normal. we had power to everything in the car ( lights, radio, idiot lights, gauges, etc ), but no starter cranking. the issue is when the key is turned to the on position with engine not running, going to turn the key to start, it will do " nothing " when its turn and held in the start position. when we tapped the starter, the black top of wires was moving around. the gear shaft had so much play in it and the solenold was broken where the wires connect and u and move the top of the solenold cover with ur hand. we had to hit it with a rubber mallot to get the car started and get it to his house to do the repair. the connections were clean as i checked them and there are on there tight. hes got a newer battery in the car which is about over a year old and it was fully charged at 12.6 Volts. i checked the small wire ( purple ) and its getting power there. Heres some answers to ur all's questions. But certainly not because of quality or actual production costs, just getting robbed blind by buying one. Worth stealing, so anti-thief had to be added. Its not that we are getting better quality today, all that chrome was replaced by cheap plastic with 90% of the parts throwaway, all that union labor was replaced with robotics, but the price has gone up by a factor of ten.
1998 CHEVY LUMINA HOW TO
But as it is, have to crawl under the dash, fool around with an air bag to get to the ignitions switch, remove the console or dash to get at the anti-thief module, remove half the engine to get at the neutral safety switch, crawl all over under the hood, and be some kind of an electronic genius as to why the thief control isn't working.Ĭould go back to the pedal rod, but people have gone sue crazy when the idiots don't know how to start their cars and run over their own kids that are also idiots for standing behind the car when their stupid parents are leaving that resulted in a ton of liability lawsuits.Īnd then cars were so cheap back then, weren't worth stealing.
1998 CHEVY LUMINA SERIES
One big fat series circuit that would be real easy to trouble shoot if you had all the components laid out neatly on a work bench. Started of with the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, either brake or clutch pedal switched, then the anti-thief module and ever further complicated by remote starters. Not exactly like the Ford Model A where you step on the pedaled rod to push two contacts together to hook the battery to the starter. And if that is the case it could also be the ignition switch with a bad wire going to the relay Just a thoughtįigured Gus would asked that question. It would turn it enough to turn on the accessory and ignition run but not the start position. I took the ignition lock to find out that the ears on the ignition lock that engages into the ignition switch were round off and wasn't turning the ignition switch far enough to start the car because of the slop in his ignition lock. I check for voltage when key was turned and no voltage. He called me and I bypassed the starter relay and the starter started the car. The man replaced the starter because AAA said it was the starter. A few month ago I went through a similar issue with a 1992 Dodge Caravan. If so the ignition switch is providing power to the relay to send power to the starter.If not it could be the sloppy ignition lock, not the ignition switch. While someone in the car turns on the ignition to try to start, you hold your hand on the starter relay and see if you can feel a click.
If all the suggestion above seem to be OK, then when this issue happens the next time, you need to find out where the starter relay is.
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